Thauland's most famous salad, balancing the four major tastes: sour lime, hot chili, salty fish sauce, and sweet palm sugar. Shredded green papaya is pounded with long beans, tomatoes, and peanuts for a crunchy, explosive flavor profile.

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Crush the garlic and chilies in a clay mortar until broken but not smooth.
Add the dried shrimp (if using) and long beans. Pound gently to bruise the beans.
Add the palm sugar, lime juice, and fish sauce. Stir with the pestle to dissolve the sugar.
Add the shredded green papaya, tomatoes, and peanuts.
Pound lightly while mixing with a spoon (the "Pok Pok" motion) to bruise the papaya and integrate the dressing without turning it into mush. Do this for about 1 minute.
Taste the salad and adjust the seasoning. It should be equally sour, salty, and sweet with a kick of spice.
Serve immediately on its own or with sticky rice.